Monday, October 21, 2024

Cultural Information in Late October 2024.

   


The 1970s had dynamic fashion styles, which includes some of the greatest fashion clothing of the 20th century. Popular music and movies influenced the fashion of the decades. Many prints came from India and other parts of the world. Soul music, hippie culture, glam rock, and other forms of expression influenced 1970s fashion styles. David Bowie sued glam rock as an androgynous clothing style. Many men and women wore bell-bottomed pants. There were turtle necked shirts and three-piece suits. Dark coats were worn by Richard Roundtree in the film Shaft, Pam Grier wore elaborate dresses in films, and Jim Kelly wore Afros in films like Black Belt Jones. Many men wore large sideburns, beards, and mustaches. Women wore long and straight hair. There were miniskirts and minidresses. Later, women wore hot pants. Young women wore crop tops by the end of the 1970s. There were platform shoes, leisure shoes, the start of the mohawk hairstyle (used in punk culture), Flokati rugs, lavalamps, and Papasan chairs. Many women wore denim jackets and headbands. The disco culture has tons of fashion styles, and many people in the 1970s roller skates in disco arenas.  Individuality was common in the fashion during the 1970s. New technologies brought about advances such as mass production, higher efficiency, generating higher standards and uniformity. Generally, the most famous silhouette of the mid and late 1970s for both genders was that of tight on top and loose on bottom. The 1970s also saw the birth of the indifferent, anti-conformist casual chic approach to fashion, which consisted of sweaters, T-shirts, jeans and sneakers. 


New technologies brought about advances such as mass production, higher efficiency, generating higher standards and uniformity. Generally the most famous silhouette of the mid and late 1970s for both genders was that of tight on top and loose on bottom. The 1970s also saw the birth of the indifferent, anti-conformist casual chic approach to fashion, which consisted of sweaters, T-shirts, jeans and sneakers. One notable fashion designer to emerge into the spotlight during this time was Diane von Fürstenberg, who popularized, among other things, the jersey "wrap dress." von Fürstenberg's wrap dress design, essentially a robe, was among the most popular fashion styles of the 1970s, would also be credited as a symbol of women's liberation. The French designer Yves Saint Laurent and the American designer Halston both observed and embraced the changes that were happening in the society, especially the huge growth of women's rights and the youth counterculture. They successfully adapted their design aesthetics to accommodate the changes that the market was aiming for. Top fashion models in the 1970s were Lauren Hutton, Margaux Hemingway, Beverly Johnson, Gia Carangi, Janice Dickinson, Patti Hansen, Cheryl Tiegs, Jerry Hall, and Iman. By the late 1970s, there was the more relaxed look. Many women wore pantsuits, leisure suits, tracksuits, and sundresses worn with tight T-shirts. There were accessories like scarves, gold jewelry, ankle boots, boas, etc. By 1978, designer jeans were introduced. They were popular with designers creating them (like Calvin Klein, Gloria Vanderbilt, and Fiorucci).  By the late 1970s, many men wore tracksuits, jumpsuits, and sportwear. Some men wore wristbands, necklaces, and headbands.  



The fashion of the 1980s filled with experimentation. The fashion of the early 1980s was a continuation of the fashion of the late 1970s. Throughout the 1980s, hip hop culture, heavy metal music, and films represented a large part of 1980s fashion. However, fashion became more extravagant during the 1980s. The 1980s included teased and colorfully-dyed hair, ripped jeans, neon clothing and many colors and different designs which at first were not accepted. Significant hairstyle trends of the 1980s include the perm, the mullet, the Jheri curl, the hi-top fade, and big hair. Significant clothing trends of the 1980s include shoulder pads, jean jackets, leather pants, leather aviator jackets, jumpsuits, Members Only jackets, skin-tight acid-washed jeans, Izod Lacoste and "preppy" polo shirts, leggings and leg warmers (popularized in the film Flashdance), off-the-shoulder shirts, and cut sweatshirts (popularized in the same film). Miniskirts returned to mainstream fashion in the mid-1980s after a ten-year absence, mostly made of denim material. From that point on, miniskirts and minidresses have remained in mainstream fashion to this day. Makeup on the 1980s was aggressive, shining and colourful. Women emphasized their lips, eyebrows and cheeks with makeup. They used much blush and eyeliner. Additional trends of the 1980s include athletic headbands, Ray-Ban Aviator sunglasses (popularized in the film Top Gun), Ray-Ban Wayfarer sunglasses (popularized in the films Risky Business and The Blues Brothers and the TV series Miami Vice), Swatch watches, and the Rubik's Cube (became a popular fad throughout the decade). Girls and women also wore jelly shoes, large crucifix necklaces, and brassieres all inspired by Madonna's "Like a Virgin" music video. Many women wore large hair dos and puffed-up styles like Jackee Harry of the 227 show. Many women wore shoulder pads too. There were glamourous styles shown on shows like Dynasty. There was the further growth of the supermodel culture during the 1980s with people like Brooke Shields, Christie Brinkley, Gia Carangi, Joan Severance, Kim Alexis, Carol Alt, Yasmin Le Bon, Renée Simonsen, Kelly Emberg, Inès de La Fressange, Tatjana Patitz, Elle Macpherson, and Paulina Porizkova. The early 1980s saw a minimalist style with a spaghetti strap dress. Brights colors were shown by the mid to late 1980s. By the end of the 1980s, many African Americans wore African medallions, Malcolm X hats, and four finger rings representative of the growth of hip hop culture. The 1980s saw an increase of name brand consumer brands involving clothes and shoes. 


Japanese fashion designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Issey Miyake started a new school of fashion during the late 1980s called "Japanese Avant-Garde Fashion", which combined Asian cultural inspiration with mainstream European fashion. The Japanese spirit and culture that they presented to Europeans caused a fashion revolution in Europe which continued to spread worldwide. Large framed sunglasses and glasses were worn by men and women.   Involving shoes, Converse were popular in the first half of the 1980s including Adidas. Then, Air Jordan 1 took over the shoe game forever.  The Air Jordan 1 was released in the royal blue color way to the public in 1985 and was an immediate success, still retaining its value in the fashion world today. Air Jordan was produced by Nike, Inc. being part of the Michael Jordan brand. Nike paid the NBA a fine for the show to be not completely white. Air Jordan is the most revolutionary tennis shoe in human history. Soon, other manufacturers introduced premium athletic shoes. Hip hop culture in the 1980s promoted Adidas sneakers, Jordan, Reebok, New Balance, Kangol hats, and other forms of necklaces and chains. MC Hammer, Run DMC, Will Smith and Jazzy Jeff, MC Lyte, Queen Latifah, and other artists of the 1980s shown diverse fashion styles. Fila, Puma, Avia, and other brands were very common back then. Hip Hop fashion represent both fashion from the streets of urban community and high-end luxury fashion. Harlem designer and shop-owner Dapper Dan embodied this concept by redesigning luxury products and making them available to those who would not typically associate themselves with it. Dapper Dan was most famous for deconstructing a Louis Vuitton garment and turning it into his signature jacket. He reconstructed garments for many music icons and celebrities in the 1980s before getting shut down by lawyers in the early 1990s. This interest in luxury apparel expanded past Dapper Dan - American fashion brands Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, and Nautica were expanding rapidly and embraced by hip-hop culture as an indicator of status. The Pan African colors of green, yellow, red, black, and green were popular among African Americans plus kente cloth. Many suburban teens wore preppy fashion. Many of them worn Brook Brothers suits, Polo Ralph Lauren shirts, Izod Lacoste, etc. There were ponytails, large hair, mullets, jerri curls, and high top fade worn. Artistic expression was the fashion of the 1980s. 


  




The 1990s had massive economic prosperity in many parts of the world. Fashion back then included a minimalist style and design. The 1990s rejected a lot of the bright colors of the 1980s including jeans, jerseys, and more simplistic styles. The early 1990s had hi top fade being expressed by African Americans. There were the shorter haircuts for men. There were flannel shirts being shown in grunge culture. There were slap bracelets, sideburns, and an anti-fashion style. There were baggy jeans, cargo shorts, and baseball caps worn backward. Jordans dominated the decades in tennis shoe fashion along with Reebox, New Balance, etc. There were oversized sweatshirts, loose fitting teens, and clothes with logos on them. By the mid to late 1990s, more people wore tattoos and piercings. Even as late as the 1980s, very few people wore tattoos and piercings in the mainstream which was popularized by Allen Iverson, many rock bands, Dennis Rodman, and other pop stars. That changed in the 1990s when more people wore belly button piercings, and Dennis Rodman dyed his hair in many colors. Many men wore tribal style arm bands. The 1990s saw the growth of supermodels dominating the fashion industry. These models included people of every color and background increasingly like  Nadja Auermann, Tyra Banks, Christie Brinkley, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen, Cindy Crawford, Karen Elson, Linda Evangelista, Yasmeen Ghauri, Bridget Hall, Shalom Harlow, Eva Herzigova, Michele Hicks, Kirsty Hume, Milla Jovovich, Yasmin Le Bon, Audrey Marnay, Kristen McMenamy, Kate Moss, Karen Mulder, Carolyn Murphy, Nadège, Erin O'Connor, Kirsten Owen, Tatjana Patitz, Maggie Rizer, Claudia Schiffer, Stephanie Seymour, Tatiana Sorokko, Stella Tennant, Christy Turlington, Amber Valletta, Guinevere Van Seenus, Alek Wek, and Amy Wesson. Even in the fashion industry, there was massive racism, so Naomi Campbell to her credit publicly and privately fought racism in fashion culture. 


One of the most influential group of models during the early 1990s was the Big Five, whose fame and social power allegedly surpassed that of many movie stars. The Big Five consisted of supermodels Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Tatjana Patitz. Whether booked as individuals or as an elite group, each supermodel gained worldwide success and had great influence on the fashion industry. Naomi Campbell was the first black woman to grace the cover of French Vogue, Time, and American Vogue's September issue. Cindy Crawford was the highest paid model on the planet in 1995 per Forbes. Christy Turlington was known for being a reliable model who garnered over 500 covers during her career and most notably, signed a contract with Maybelline for an annual fee of $800,000 for twelve days' work. Linda Evangelista was known as the industry's "chameleon" for her ability to suit a multitude of styles. Evangelista also infamously coined the phrase, "We don't wake up for less than $10,000 a day." Tatjana Patitz, the last of the Big Five, continues to be regarded as one of the "original supermodels" and even after her retirement, she remains in demand periodically by such designer houses as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Chanel. Later in the decade, Tatjana was replaced in the Big Five by supermodel Claudia Schiffer, who is one of the most successful supermodels in the world, holding the record for the most magazine covers according to The Guinness Book of World Records. Kate Moss was a young model in the 1990s. She was exploited by people to promote the controversial movement of "heroin chic" which was criticized for promoting eating disorders.  Tyson Beckford, Tim Boyce and Marcus Schenkenberg  were popular models in the 1990s too. Lisa Lopes promoted neon colors on clothes. Many people wore cowboy boots, slouch shocks, Keds, etc. From 1991 on, sports bras, hoodies, shortalls, leotards and bodysuits worn as tops with jeans, a sweatshirt over a turtleneck with jeans rolled up to show off their slouch socks were popular with young girls, teens, college girls, and young women in the UK and Europe. Tyra Banks is a fashion icon who was very popular in the 1990s with a new school, hip hop influenced expression. She was on the cover of Sports Illustrated, and she was a professional actress too. Janet Jackson promoted massive fashion styles in the 1990s too. 




By the mid to late 1990s, influences from Asia and from the 1970s were in the 1990s. Many men wore graphic print T-shirt, athletic clothing, Champion clothes, and baseball jackets. Hip Hop culture was popular too with Fubu and other styles that focused on colors, matching images, and being comfortable. Track suits, Baja Jackets, and the 8 ball jacket were promoted in hip-hop culture. Michael Hoban promoted hip hop fashion too. Southern hip-hop provided a platform for fashion designers and musical artists to collaborate forming an influential subculture of anti-fashion and alternative fashion designs, especially the popular recycled clothing worn by Arrested Development and Goodie Mob. The 1990s saw a massive sportswear culture with NY Yankees logo sweaters, khaki cargo pants, and hoodies. DMX promoted the ski goggles during the late 1990s.  Women's hairstyles by the early 1990s had a big, curly style (that was shown in the 1980s). By the end of the 1990s, there were more pixie cuts, short hair, and bangs. Many women wore ponytails. Men wore cornrows, fades, mullets, curtained hair, Ceasars, and some men dyed their hair. Many men wore a conservative hair cut in the 1990s too. Women wore diverse makeup by the 1990s. 



  



Fashion in the 20th century was a game changer. It saw the most diverse, interesting, and exciting fashion in human history. The fashion of the early 20th century was lightyears different than the fashion of the latter 20th century. The 20th century saw unprecedented amounts of scientific discoveries, scopes of warfare, new modes of communication, and wide-ranging art and entertainment. Population growth in the 20th century was monumental being from 1.6 billion people to about 6.2 billion people by the end of the century. Just in 100 years, the 20th century saw World I, World II, the Spanish flu pandemic, the creation of nuclear weapons, the modern-day Civil Rights Movement, the Internet, space travel, and digital computing. That relates to the massive changes of fashion from Victorian clothes of the early 20th century to more designs and logos on clothing by the 1990s. During this time, we saw the rise of more fashion designers, supermodels, and other icons of fashion culture. We have Naomi Campbell making history and Dapper Dan representing hip hop culture involving fashion designs too. We saw unique, revolutionary shoes like Jordan, Adidas, Reebok, and New Balance changing how people express their individuality too. 









Dana Howard is my 4th cousin, and she was born in Fairfax, Virginia on January 19, 1981. Her parents are Roy Lee Howard (b. 1944) and Yetta Stratton (b. 1951). Her sister is Danielle Howard. Yetta Straton's parents were Thomas Edward Stratton (1914-1992) and Essie Mae Ames (1924-2006). The parents of my 2nd cousin Thomas Edward Stratton were Alfred Stratton (1894-1951) and Virginia (Jennie) Burton (1883-1968). The parents of Virginia (Jennie) Burton were James Burton (1848-1931) and Ann Eliza Brickhouse (1857-1921). The parents of my 2nd great-grandaunt were Johnson Brickhouse (b. 1826) and Julia Perkins (b. 1835). So, Dana Howard and I share the same 3rd great grandparents of Johnson Brickhouse and Julia Perkins. My 2nd paternal cousin Ardelia Upshur (1897-1986) was married to Roman J. Barnes (b. 1896) on December 3, 1920, at Northampton, County, Virginia. Their son is James Wendall Barnes (b. 1922). James Wendall Barnes married Elsia Kenner on January 11, 1942, in Wilmington, Delaware. The Delaware Marriage Records confirmed this too. Their child is James Wendall Barnes Jr. (b. 1943). Later, Ardella Upshur married Monieth Roots (1891-1966) on March 22, 1943, in Delaware. My 3rd cousin was Naomi Upshur Francis (1929-2019), and she was born in Hare Valley, Virginia on November 18, 1929. Her parents are Jesse and Nellie Upshur. She was educated in the Northampton County school system and married Curtis Hoover Francis of Nassawadox, Virginia. They were married on February 28, 1948, at their home church, New Allen A.M.E. Church in Franktown, Virginia. They have three children whose names are: G. Giane Brown (who is married to Michael Brown) of Irvington, New Jersey, Curtis H. Francis Jr. (who is married to Sheila) of Willingboro, New Jersey, and Donald L. Francis (who is married to Cheryl) of Manassas, Virginia. She has 8 grandchildren, 15 great grandchildren, nieces, nephews, and many family members plus friends. Naomi Upshur Francis volunteered at the local Hospice care, helping the homeless, worked with her husband in religious activities, and mentored plus prayed with young women at her. She was the guiding light of wisdom and strength. Her brother is the late Dr. Bernard Lee Upshur of Florida. 


By Timothy



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